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The hat designer must be aware of forthcoming themes in fashion and colour. Creating new shapes is vital. Sometimes the prototype will be made by hand from which an aluminium block will be cast.

The designer may make a sketch or work straight into the hat, pinning on the trimmings or draping the fabric till they are satisfied with the result. Specialist suppliers provide flowers, feathers, braid etc. to give the hat individuality.

If the aspiring designer wishes to become famous they need to he both extremely talented and lucky. The mass produced hat designer cannot always expect to have their name on the label; the general public will be more aware of those model millinery designers often patronised by a wealthy clientele including Royalty.

The successful designer must have an understanding of general fashion, an eye for colour, coupled with a visual understanding of proportion and detail. You must be a good communicator, able to sell ideas to your director and customer whilst able to show clearly the production line how to produce your designs accurately.

Blocking and Pressing

Blocking in a mass production factory is the shaping of various materials over aluminium blocks. Every style that is designed has its own block. Straw and felt arrives at the factory in a semi shaped state, which is known as a 'hood'. When blocking begins, the shape is heated by gas to a high temperature and the hoods are subjected to steam. Two people are required to stretch the fabric over the block and a surprising amount of strength is needed to do so. After the initial blocking and machining, hats are pressed using a hydraulic machine to give a smooth, clean finish and to the straws a lovely lustre.

Blocking and pressing are both physically demanding processes which require strength and accuracy. One stands all the time, and has to contend with the heat of the gas and steam, which can be extremely hot, therefore good health and strong muscles will be a definite asset.

A machinist plays an important part in the manufacturing process. Several types of sewing machines are used, all of which require special skills. A hat can be made entirely by machine by fixing together several pieces of fabric/cloth that has been pre-cut to pattern; it is then the skill of the machinist to create the correct style.

Another part of hat machining is working with materials such as woolfelt, straw and fabrics which have been pre-formed by the blocking process and require several operations by the machinist, These are:

	machining a wire or cane onto the edge of the brim to maintain its shape
	attaching ribbon, velvet or other material to the edge of the hat to give a neat clean finish, known as binding
	fixing crowns and brims together to make different styles
	machining various materials and ribbons to create trimmings

All these tasks require expertise which is highly sought after throughout the trade. A machinist must have nimble fingers, a good eye, hand co-ordination, but above all enthusiasm.

Trimming

After its shape the most important part of a hat is its trim. Trimming is the process performed to embellish and give style. To do so one attaches a wide variety of trims around the crown and sometimes the brim. It is also the art of cutting. measuring and making drapes, pleats, etc.

All trims can be secured on a hat by hand sewing (needle and thread) or gluing with a hot glue gun as used in decorative crafts.

To be a trimmer you will need sewing abilities, a good eye for balance, proportions and copying; a quick mind able to translate specifications from the designer and lots of patience!

Passing - Hot Potting - Packing

	Passing - This is the ultimate quality control - checking on hood, trim, machining, head fit etc; labels and content labels will be inserted and the hat cleaned and brushed or blown with an air gun.
	Hot Potting - To ensure that the inner ribbon head band is pressed flat and also that the head fitting is right (national average in the UK is 57cms I 22.3/8"), the hat will be placed over a warm metal head shape called a Hot Pot.
	Packing - Once passing and hot potting have been successfully carried out, the hats are bagged in polythene and carefully packed in cardboard boxes with tissue paper. Packing hats is an art which requires particular skills of judgement and knowledge acquired through experience. It is very much a specialist area.

To carry out any of the above processes, you will need to be thorough, precise and caring. You will stand for hours at a time, but it is a rewarding area to work in as you will see the results of a whole team effort and the final achievement of many months of creative and productive work.

Sales

There are a variety of ways in which sales people operate: from a factory, from a showroom, by meeting customers directly at their boutique, through exhibitions or showing in an hotel.

There are two selling seasons; Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. The buyers will expect a sales person to have in-depth knowledge of manufacturing and production, to be aware of fashion trends, the market place and the competition.

Export customers are important and the knowledge of another European language could be an asset.

To be a successful sales person you will need to be knowledgeable about the trade; thorough, assertive, sharp, friendly and attentive. You will treat your customers as business partners, whilst having a good memory and bags of energy!

Opportunities in Management

In the hat trade, as in any other industry, the management team very much depends on the size of the business. Most managing directors tend to be owners or major shareholders of their factories. The positions available are similar to that of any manufacturing industry.

	Sales and Marketing Director
	Financial Director
	Factory Manager
	Production Manager
	Head of Design or Designer
	Despatch manager
	Supervisors - these employees are in charge of a work room or department and are responsible for distributing work and supervising staff.

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